Back In The Saddle With A Different View

This time of year at the restaurant, it's like playtime for me, because I get to spend a lot of time back in the kitchen. Like any business, our hourly staff gets some more time off, and us "salaried" types save the business a little money.

After having been the Chef for South Beach Grill for almost seven years it's not that I miss being in the kitchen. Oh sure, there are certain aspects of it that I will always miss a little bit, like expediting food orders on a busy Saturday night in the summer, much like a conductor leads an orchestra. Or the satisfaction of meticulously plating dozens of Grouper Linda's and Flounder Francaise dishes exactly the same and watching them go out to the tables knowing the guest is going to be blown away.

But what I love the most about my job as General Manager, is that I get a really good grip on every aspect of the food. As a Chef, it's easy to get "tunnel vision" when it comes to your food. You see your dishes in their preparation stage, through production, and final plating. But once that food goes up into the "window," you tend to forget about it because you have to move on to the next dish so quickly.

As GM, I also get to see those same dishes go to the tables, and I'm also able to get first-hand feed back from the customer on their experience. I think it's a unique privilege to be able to see all sides of things. What it really does is allow me to give valuable information to the Chef and kitchen staff when it comes to dishes working or not working. Even plate presentation is affected. In the kitchen, the lighting is very bright, and there is virtually no glare from the plates or food whatsoever. But when a plate hits the table, it's placed under a dim light, often next to a candle that can cause a slight glare off of a bright white plate. After all, no matter what food trends come and go, presentation goes a long way.

But I think the coolest thing about my job is that because I was in the kitchen for so long, I have the ability to answer most of the questions our guests have about the food, and I'm able to make suggestions for them.

I guess maybe I'm bragging or gloating a little bit here, but what I'm really trying to say is that I'm extremely lucky, and thankful for the job I have. I love every aspect of the restaurant business, and I'm fortunate enough to be elbow deep in all of it! I wouldn't trade my job for any other. I get to run a restaurant, and have my hands in both the front and back of the house. I get to throw my two cents into menu development, and my boss lets me have total control of the wine and beer lists.

But before I finish rambling on, I need to say that I couldn't have as much fun at my job, and be able to do it well if I didn't have the best staff that any restaurant manager could wish to have. The people who work for me and South Beach Grill show every day that they are there for so much more than themselves. They truely work to make the restaurant great. So my hat goes off to my staff, and I say thank you to all of them.

Trending Simple For 2011

Well, it's been quite some time since my last post, but with good reason. Along with my wife, I've been extremely busy. You see, on December 8, at 2:30 a.m. we were blessed with the arrival of our little girl, Grace Helen Kronenwetter. So much like with our son, Max just shy of two years ago, our lives have been turned upside down a bit. Her arrival was a nice way to end 2010.

And so what will the new year bring us in the world of food? As a restaurant manager, I have been watching what trusted sources and industry "in-the-knows" have been predicting, and they're all pretty close together.

Among the most talked about trends are home canning and pickling, sustainability, and impact on the environment, and the continued rise of ethnic foods.

But my favorite trend that seemingly all analysts are talking about is something that I preach day in and day out: SIMPLICITY.

In an economy that is about as uncertain as it has ever been, diners are still reluctant to move away from the unfamiliar. I think the most successful restaurants of this year and even for a few years to come will be the ones serving straight-forward, no frills, no "look how freaking creative our chef is" food. Just take a look for example at a couple of the food magazines out there like bon appetit and Food and Wine. Only a couple of years ago you could pick any issue, and the picture on the cover would be something like squid ink pasta with steamed cockles, or some unrecognisable meat or poultry carefully made up to look more like a museum piece than something you would eat.

Look at recent issues by these same magazines, and you will see things like beautiful roasted chickens, and simply grilled thick pieces of fish.

That's not to say that chefs shouldn't be creative. After all, it's the creative passion for food that I hope we all got into this business for anyway. But I think that what is going to set chefs and restaurants apart in the upcoming year is not necessarily what innovative and new products they bring in their back door, but how creative they can be with the "common" foods diners are used to and more importantly how well they are prepared.

With all of that in mind, I'm excited to be presenting my next cooking class at "The Seasoned Gourmet" which will feature simple French Bistro fare. The evening's menu will include:

French Vegetable Soup

Mussels Sauteed In Wine, Garlic And Fresh Herbs

Curly Endive Salad With Champagne Vinaigrette

Pan Roasted Pork Medallions With Tarragon Mustard Sauce

Grand Marnier Chocolate Mousse

Sounds good, doesn't it. Once again, the focus will be how easy it can be to take simple preparations and making them into an elegant meal. Hope to see you there.

For more information go to: www.theseasonedgourmet.com

Early Valentines Day!

So us "restaurant" types are always thinking ahead...WAY ahead. We have to. In order to stay up with not only competition, but also to anticipate things to come, we try to look as far into the culinary telescope that we can.

That being said, I'm looking not just to the next big holiday---New Year's Eve, but beyond that to Valentine's Day as well.


The other day I was flipping through some old Gourmet magazines looking for inspiration, and just passing the time, when I ran across a delicious looking recipe for a chocolate tart. I will tell you that I can do a lot of things in the kitchen, but will admit completely that baking is not my strong suit. Never has been. Well anyway, after I made this thing (with just a couple of my own alterations-----sorry, couldn't resist) it was so good I wanted to share the recipe with everyone. It's so rich and decadent, I think it would make a perfect Valentine's Day dessert.

Anyway, here you go:

Chocolate Almond Raspberry Tart (recipe adapted from Gourmet magazine)

Crust:

1 1/4 cups finely ground chocolate graham crackers
6 Tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Filling:
6 ounces almond paste, crumbled
3 Tablespoons creamy peanut butter
3 Tablespoons brewed coffee
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate (don't exceed 61% cacao) chopped
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 pint fresh raspberries
2 Tablespoons seedless raspberry jam
1/4 cup Cabernet wine
1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted


Preheat oven to 350F. Combine graham cracker crumbs and butter in a medium bowl. Stir until crumbs are evenly coated and beginning to stick together. Press crumb mixture in thin even layer onto the bottom and up the sides of a 9 inch spring-form pan. Bake crust until set and beginning to crisp, about 15 minutes. Cool crust completely.


Combine almond paste, peanut butter and coffee in a small bowl, and stir until it's become a smooth paste. Spread evenly over crust. Place the chocolate in a medium bowl, and bring cream to a simmer in a saucepan. Pour cream over chocolate, and stir to melt completely (did you know you just made a ganache?). Pour the mixture over the almond-peanut butter layer. Chill tart until chocolate is cold and let, at least 4 hours, and up to 1 day.


When tart is cooled and set. Slice raspberries in half lengthwise, and arrange around the tart. Stir jam and wine in a small pan over low heat until blended and heated through. Brush glaze over berries. Sprinkle almonds around the edge of the tart. Chill uncovered.


Using a small sharp knife, loosen crust from pan sides. Release the springform pan, cut into wedges and serve cold.

Don't forget, "Fresh Fish And Fried Pickles" makes a great holiday gift for the home cook in your family! Go to www.fishnpickles.com and order your signed copy!

Holiday Scone Recipe

Thought I'd just throw you a good simple recipe for some holiday scones. When this time of year comes around, those of us who don't drink liquor somehow end up with a couple of half-full bottles of this or that lying around. After all, so many of those holiday cakes and other treats are just a bit better with a little nip of brandy, rum, or flavored liquor.


Last month for a cooking class, I needed to purchase some amaretto, so I've had this bottle sitting on my shelf. Well yesterday, I kind of ate all of the doughnuts I bought for my very pregnant wife. Not a wise thing to do considering all of the raging hormones going on.

To get myself a bit out of the doghouse so-to-speak, I wanted to make her something for breakfast other than the usual eggs, pancakes, etc. Scones are really easy, and the amaretto added a really nice touch. A great tip if you're only wanting a half dozen or so is to simply ball up half of the dough, wrap in plastic and refrigerate. It will keep for two to three days in the fridge, or up to two weeks in the freezer.

Preheat oven to 425F.


Whisk together in a large bowl:

2 cups all purpose flour
1/3 cup sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt

Drop in 6 Tablespoons of cold butter cut into pieces.

Cut the butter with a fork or pastry blender, and work into the flour mixture until the whole mix resembles bread crumbs, and the butter pieces are about the size of peas. Don't let the butter melt.

Stir in 3/4 cup of raisins or dried cranberries.

Whisk together in a small bowl, then add to the flour mixture:

1 large egg
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup amaretto
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

Using a rubber spatula or spoon, mix the dough until it starts to come together, then using your hands, form into a ball in the bowl, being sure to get all of the mix encorporated.

Turn out onto a lightly floured surface, and pat the dough into a 8 inch round about 3/4 inch thick. Cut into wedges, and place on a baking sheet keeping them about 1/2 inch apart. Bake for about 12 to 15 minutes just until the tops are brown.

The Southern Melting Pot

I have been cooking for a long time. I have had the fortune to cook in some very nice restaurants, and with some very talented chefs. So one might assume, that through my twenty-some years of cooking I would have developed a definitive style, right? Well I was asked the other day to describe just what my style of cooking is, and I have to say I was stuck! It has actually caused a few sleepless nights just trying to answer that question. What I have come up with is that there is no answer. My style of cooking is eclectic, and influenced by all cuisines, as well as the people around me. I think that's why living and cooking in the south suits me just fine.

The Southern United States really is a melting pot of cuisines. Here in North Carolina, we have influences from the Native Americans who introduced corn and other vegetables. In the 1500's, Spanish explorers brought pigs with them introducing pork. In the 1600's, West Africans carried some of their traditional food with them such as eggplant, collard greens and okra when they were forced here as slaves.


Perhaps it is my classical French training, or maybe just my love for hot sauce and craw fish that makes the cuisine of Southern Louisiana my favorite of all. Both Creole and Cajun styles of cooking reflect heavy French influences, and bring a passion for cooking from the heart like no other. Creole and Cajun cooking do have their differences. Creole cooking is a bit more refined, with heavy influences from the French, Germans, Africa and the West Indies. Cajun cooking is more spiced, with more "one-pot" dishes heavily influenced by Native Americans.

What the do share, is what all southern cooking encompasses: A love and passion for food and cooking that you will find in no other culture. And why shouldn't they. It is the food of the Southern United States that is a melting pot of European cuisine.

Here is a recipe for a Caribbean Black Bean Soup With Smoked Sausage. It serves as an example of a delicious soup that carries influences from Spain, and the Mediterranean, while utilizing one of the South's prominent staples: Pork! And don't forget to check out other great recipes in "Fresh Fish And Fried Pickles." Go to www.fishnpickles.com and get your signed copy!

"JOUIR!"

Caribbean Black Bean Soup With Smoked Sausage

1/3 cup olive oil

2 Tbs garlic, chopped

2 cups yellow onions, chopped

1/2 cup celery, chopped

1/2 cup carrot, chopped

3 serrano peppers, sliced thin

2 ham hocks

1/2 tsp ground black pepper

1 tsp ground cumin

1 Tbs chili powder

1 Tbs jerk seasoning

3 15.25 oz cans black beans

1 3/4 cups chicken stock

1/2 pound smoked sausage, sliced

In a large stock pot, heat the olive oil on medium-high heat, add garlic and saute until it just begins to turn white. Add carrots, onion and celery, and saute for about five minutes until vegetables begin to soften. Stir in all seasonings, reduce heat to medium and add ham hocks.

Add chicken stock and black beans, increase heat to high, and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low, and continue to cook for about one hour until soup thickens slightly. Stir in smoked sausage, and serve.

Makes about six servings.

Wedge Salad With Creamy Feta Dressing

It was another busy week-end at South Beach Grill, and once again, the kitchen put out some fantastic dishes. You know I always talk about how so often simple is best. Well here is a recipe for an Iceburg Wedge Salad that a very nice guest asked me about. You will find this recipe in the book "Fresh Fish And Fried Pickles" as well as soon as it's in print (should be only a couple more weeks!). A nice preview of the book can be found at its website: http://www.fishnpickles.com/

In the mean time, here's that delicious wedge salad!

4 Roma tomatoes

1/2 tsp Kosher salt

1/2 Tbs. dried oregano

1 tsp olive oil

1/2 tsp black pepper

4 leaves leaf lettuce

1 head iceburg lettuce

1 cup sliced red onion

1/2 cup cooked chopped bacon

For The Dressing:

1 cup half and half

1/4 cup lemon juice

1/2 Tbs black pepper

2 Tbs Italian parsley, chopped

1 cup mayonnaise

2 cups crumbled feta cheese

2 Tbs minced chives

Combine all dressing ingredients, and mix well.

Pre-heat oven to 400F. Quarter the tomatoes, and place on a baking sheet. Drizzle the tomatoes with olive oil, and season with salt, pepper, and oregano. Bake for about 10 minutes, just until the skin of the tomatoes starts to soften.

Cut the iceburg head into 4 equal sections. Arrange one piece of leaf lettuce on each serving plate, and set wedge on top. Top with red onions, and ladel dressing evenly over each salad. Garnish with chopped bacon, and roasted tomatoes.

"SIMPLY" Delicious! Back To The Basics

Last night a couple came into the restaurant for dinner. After they had somewhat worked their way into the meal, I approached the table, and asked them if they were enjoying dinner. The gentleman said that his Grouper "Linda" (pecan-crusted grouper with a lump crab and sherry beurre blanc) was very good, and his wife's meal was excellent as well. But what he most noted as being perfectly done was the sauteed vegetables that accompanied his dish. In fact, his comment to me was that he and his wife had not had vegetables that perfectly cooked and seasoned since their honeymoon in Venice, Italy!

Sooooooo what, you say? Well, it just shows like it has countless other times, that if great care is taken in the simple things, great tasting and eye-appealing food is really easy. When we cook, we pay attention to what we are doing. We understand the concept of how the heat of the pan is causing the food in it to react.

I keep saying it over and over, but to cook great food requires just a few basic ingredients and practices. Lets take our sauteed vegetables for example.

Start with FRESH ingredients, and a really HOT pan

Extra virgin olive oil

A little Kosher salt

Fresh ground pepper

Splash of white wine

From there we take some julienned squash, zucchini, red bell pepper and onions, and sautee them for just a few seconds in olive oil. Then just a splash of wine (the wine helps to somewhat steam the vegetables), season lightly with salt and pepper, and away we go! No magic here, just some high heat, and care for what we're doing.

The same principle applies to fish. I am a firm believer in the fresher the fish, the less you need to mess with it.

When we get grouper in for example, and it looks absolutely beautiful, glossy, and smells like nothing but the sea, the first thing that comes to mind is: Grill. Olive Oil, Lemon. No need to mask the thing with a heavy sauce, or even a light butter sauce. I've got a good example of this very dish in the book, "Fresh Fish And Fried Pickles" comming out in early August. It's Grilled Grouper With Roasted Tomatoes, Olives And Feta.

You can check out the photo of it and a couple of really simple recipes at: www.fishnpickles.com